![]() ![]() ![]() Next, switch to the stile bit which cuts the panel groove. With this setting determined, cut all rail ends. The tongue should be roughly centered on the wood, though many bits cheat it towards the rear of the door somewhat. It is important to be sure the bit height used allows sufficient material at the back of the groove to support the panel. Remember, this setup determines where the panel groove will be located in the next step. Crucial to the setup is getting the bit height right for the wood thickness. I begin by cutting the rail ends first, which helps in the setup later. (Bottom) The final check is touching the rail test piece to the stile bit to be sure it leaves no material on the top or bottom of the tenon. (Top) To set the stile bit, match the groove cutter to the tongue cut by the rail bit on your test piece. The instructions that come with the bits should explain how to make this adjustment. Most better bits can be adjusted by adding or moving shims within the cutter to alter the tongue thickness as needed. Making setup blocks also lets you make sure the tongue is being cut to the proper thickness. Once the correct setup is accomplished, a good "test set" can be saved and used as gauges to speed the setup process on future projects. It takes a little longer but can save considerable time and expense in the end. One additional step I recommend is making a set of test pieces from the stock being used for the project. So far, I have not had to plane more than 1/32nd of an inch to equalize my pieces. If the wood is undersized, the bits may not be able to cut their full profiles. Bits are usually designed to work with a specific range of wood thicknesses. However, be careful not reduce the stock too much. Planing all of the pieces to the same thickness makes this task much easier. Having a thickness planer helps more.Įven small variances in thickness among the pieces is trouble. Cutting all of the rail and stile pieces from one board helps. The first step is making sure all of the parts to be machined are the same thickness. Now my rail and stile joints fit properly and more importantly, are nearly dead flush when assembled. Within the mortise is a foam gasket that helps to hold the panel snug in place while allowing for movement.Setting the stile bit up includes being sure there is sufficient material at the rear of the groove (Top in this photo) to support the panel.Īfter struggling through several ineffective setup procedures, I discovered a method that works very well for me. The center panel is neither pinned or glued in place but rather floats within the frame to allow for natural expansion and contraction of the wood. Those members have a mortise (channel) cut into the interior sides that holds the center panels in place. The door frame has 2 vertical members (stiles) and 2 horizontal members (rails) that are made of solid wood. It is made up of an outer frame consisting of 4 pieces and a center panel that is either raised or flat thus a 5 piece door. 5 Piece Cabinet Door ConstructionĪ 5 piece door or drawer front – framed construction – is a very traditional construction for cabinet doors. We offer a variety of door styles in different construction options that are fashion forward and sure to fit any unique style and budget. For any cabinet, the door and drawer fronts are the most visible part of the box, and at Dura Supreme we take great care in their construction to ensure their lasting beauty and durability. ![]() Today we’re continuing our series of deconstructing our cabinets and discussing our different door and drawer front options. ![]()
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