With design features to completely stop any warpage of the polycarbonate. It also features a channel system to keep salt creep and water inside the rear box. We have designed the rear cover to lock in place when attached. It is a feature that was specifically designed to have a function. Locking Rear Cover – Our polycarbonate rear box cover is not just a rectangle piece of material.No other compact overflow on the market has the capability to use 1.5″ plumbing on such a small rear box. 1.5″ Plumbing – Now standard is 1.5″ plumbing capability.They allow us to fit our 1.5″ Fittings into such a small space. These compact fittings are not available off the shelf anywhere else. We have designed these fittings to maximize space inside of the outside rear overflow box. U-Flow™ Pipes – Now included with every Shadow™ overflow is a set of U-Flow™ pipes.Injection molded VTeeth™ are smooth without any rough surfaces, this provides a continuous smooth flow. This also allows us to have a very small water level differential. This maximizes the surface skimming capabilities of the overflow as the flow rate increases. VTeeth™ – Our new Velocity Teeth allow for an even surface skimming flow into the overflow.Injection molding and precision 3D CAD designed components allows us more details and features than flat stock built overflows. We are the only company that injection molds this style overflow system. Being injection molded also means no glued seams that can leak, it is truly a “One Piece” design. This means that every overflow will be exactly the same. Injection Molded – The obvious main change is that the overflow is now 100% injection molded.Please see our Q&A Tab for more information. Removable Solid Black Polycarbonate Cover that locks into place when closed (reduces noise, eliminates salt creep and light from entering the rear box) No more separate bulkheads.įits aquarium thickness from 1/4″ (6 mm) up to 3/4″ (19 mm) Glass or Acrylic tanksġ6″ x 3.75″ x 7″ Injection Molded Seamless Translucent Black ABSģ x 1.5″ ABS Slip fittings for easy plumbingĢ x U-Flow™ fittings that allow for compact plumbing With years of testing and development this overflow system is worlds apart from anything else available on the market.ġ6″ x 1.6″ x 5.5″ Injection Molded with durable Poly-carbonate materialĢ x Removable Weir with VTeeth™ Technology ( Allows you to remove and clean the teeth of the weir)īulkheads are molded into the Front Overflow Box. Simple to install, plug and play overflow system.Ĭompletely quiet operation when used to our specifications. The ultra slim design has revolutionized the aquarium overflow and how aquariums get water into their filtration systems. Preferably use a battery powered power tool - your cutter will be in the water if you do what you propose it will spray everywhere and may get in to the tool.The Shadow® Overflow is the evolution of the Synergy Reef® overflow system.įeaturing a removable weir for ease of maintenance and our molded design for fail-safe operation. Plug your power tool in to a GFCI receptacle or buy a plug in GFCI. The best (scary) plan I can think of is this:ġ) Add a filter sock to the drain in my sumpĢ) Carefully drill out each tooth to a wider diameter with a cordless drillģ) Keep my return pump on so that tank water is running over the teeth as I'm drilling (to cool them)Ĥ) Catch the drilled out acrylic from the filter sock on the drain (least of my worries)Ĭonsider making the teeth longer but the same width, too. The tank and overflow is a custom build by, I attached one of their stock photos that closely resembles the overflow on my tank. There is no easy way to remove the acrylic overflow part itself, it is thoroughly siliconed to the glass overflow box, so I will have to perform the modifications while the part is on the tank. I wanted to see if anyone else here has had to tackle this problem. I have looked up a bunch of videos on how to cut acrylic, all of them have me worried. My question is this: Does anyone have advice on how to increase the width of the teeth in an acrylic overflow that is attached to a tank? I have a split loc-line return line, and to temporarily fix the problem I ran one of the returns back into the overflow box to cut the turnover by 50% (close to the original 250 gph rate). The overflow teeth in my sump handled the increased flow with no change to the water level, but the display tank overflow teeth are much thinner and therefore need to be modified. The problem I am now facing is that the water level is dangerously high in my display tank because my overflow teeth seem to be too thin for this much turnover. I recently upgraded my main pump (sump to display) from a submersible 250 gph pump to an external 630 gph pump.
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